Karakoram Nomads
A stream winding through the open grassland of the Deosai plateau

Gilgit-Baltistan · 3,900 – 4,300 m

Deosai

Four thousand metres up, and completely flat.

The place

Four thousand metres up, and completely flat.

Deosai is a plateau the size of a small country sitting at around 4,000 metres between Skardu and Astore. Nothing grows above knee height. For nine months of the year it is under snow and nobody is there at all.

In July and August the whole thing turns green and then flowers — a shallow, endless meadow with streams running across it and no trees anywhere. Himalayan brown bears live here, perhaps seventy of them, and are occasionally seen at distance in the early morning.

Sheosar Lake sits at the western end at 4,142 metres with Nanga Parbat visible behind it on a clear day. The crossing takes most of a day by jeep, and there is nothing between the two ends of it — no fuel, no signal, no shelter.

4,114
Metres above sea level
Late June – early September
Best months
1 – 3 days
Worth staying
A river crossing the Deosai plains with snow still on the surrounding ridges
A still high-altitude lake ringed by low hills
A four-wheel drive crossing a track through high green pasture
Rolling green plateau under a wide sky in Gilgit-Baltistan

What people do here

Worth the detour.

01

Sheosar Lake

4,142 m, deep blue, with Nanga Parbat behind it if the cloud lifts. Most people camp here rather than push on.

02

Bara Pani

The main river crossing and the usual camp. Cold enough in August to need a proper bag.

03

Brown bear watching

Early morning, from a distance, with binoculars. Guides know which drainages they have been using this season.

Journeys

Ways to travel here.

All 2 journeys
A stream winding through the open grassland of the Deosai plateau Editor’s pick

Deosai · Gilgit-Baltistan

Deosai Jeep Safari

3 days Moderate Difficulty: Moderate, 2 out of 4 Max 8

Three days crossing the second-highest plateau on earth — Skardu to Sheosar, camping at Bara Pani, and out to Astore.

$340 per person

Next 24 Aug · 3 places left

Rippled sand dunes of the Skardu cold desert beneath a wall of snow peaks Editor’s pick

Skardu · Gilgit-Baltistan

Skardu Lakes & Deosai Safari

7 days Moderate Difficulty: Moderate, 2 out of 4 Max 10

Seven days in Baltistan — Kachura, the cold desert, Shigar, and the full Deosai crossing with two nights on the plateau.

$940 per person

Next 22 Aug · 4 places left

Before you go

The practical part.

Getting there
Jeep only. 3 hours from Skardu to Bara Pani, 6–7 hours to cross to Astore. The road opens when the snow clears, usually mid-June.
Permits
National park entry fee, paid at the gate at Sadpara or Chilim.
Connectivity
None whatsoever. Tell someone your route before you leave.
Seasons
Summer (June – September)

Comparing