Karakoram Nomads
The Indus River bending below Kharpocho Fort in Skardu

Gilgit-Baltistan · 2,230 m

Skardu

Cold desert on the Indus, and the road to every 8,000-metre peak.

The place

Cold desert on the Indus, and the road to every 8,000-metre peak.

Skardu sits at 2,230 metres in a wide sandy bowl where the Shigar River joins the Indus. Four of the world's fourteen 8,000-metre peaks are within a hundred kilometres of it, and every expedition to any of them starts here.

The town itself is dust, poplars, jeep workshops and the fort on the rock above it. What makes it is what surrounds it: the Katpana cold desert with its dunes, the Kachura lakes, Shigar and Khaplu an hour or two out, and Deosai over the pass to the south.

Baltistan is culturally Tibetan — Balti is a Tibetan language, the old architecture is Tibetan, and the food owes more to Ladakh than to Punjab. People here have been guiding on the Baltoro since the 1890s.

2,230
Metres above sea level
April – October
Best months
5 – 8 days
Worth staying
The Shigar valley opening out below the Karakoram
Lower Kachura Lake near Skardu on a clear afternoon
Rock and sand on the floor of the Skardu valley
A flat plateau below the peaks outside Skardu

What people do here

Worth the detour.

01

Upper and Lower Kachura

Two lakes, twenty minutes apart. Upper Kachura is the quieter of the two and better for swimming, if you can stand it.

02

Katpana cold desert

Sand dunes at 2,200 metres with snow peaks behind them. Best in the hour before sunset.

03

Kharpocho Fort

A short steep climb above the bazaar for the whole Indus bend in one frame.

04

Manthal Buddha rock

An 8th-century Maitreya carved into granite on the edge of town.

Journeys

Ways to travel here.

All 4 journeys
A stream winding through the open grassland of the Deosai plateau Editor’s pick

Deosai · Gilgit-Baltistan

Deosai Jeep Safari

3 days Moderate Difficulty: Moderate, 2 out of 4 Max 8

Three days crossing the second-highest plateau on earth — Skardu to Sheosar, camping at Bara Pani, and out to Astore.

$340 per person

Next 24 Aug · 3 places left

Rippled sand dunes of the Skardu cold desert beneath a wall of snow peaks Editor’s pick

Skardu · Gilgit-Baltistan

Skardu Lakes & Deosai Safari

7 days Moderate Difficulty: Moderate, 2 out of 4 Max 10

Seven days in Baltistan — Kachura, the cold desert, Shigar, and the full Deosai crossing with two nights on the plateau.

$940 per person

Next 22 Aug · 4 places left

K2 rising clear of cloud above the Baltoro glacier Editor’s pick

Skardu · Gilgit-Baltistan

K2 Basecamp Trek

18 days Extreme Difficulty: Extreme, 4 out of 4 Max 12

Eighteen days up the Baltoro to Concordia and K2 Base Camp — the single greatest concentration of high mountains anywhere on earth.

$2,980 per person

Next 26 Jun · 8 places left

Carved wooden balconies on the upper storeys of Khaplu Fort

Khaplu · Gilgit-Baltistan

Shigar & Khaplu Heritage Journey

6 days Easy Difficulty: Easy, 1 out of 4 Max 8

Six days through the old Baltistan — two restored palaces, a 14th-century wooden mosque, and the Shyok valley up to Hushe.

$1,240 per person

Next 14 Sep · 4 places left

Before you go

The practical part.

Getting there
Daily flights from Islamabad, 1 hour, cancelled often in winter. By road from Gilgit it is 6–7 hours along the Indus.
Permits
None for Skardu district. Baltoro and K2 Base Camp require a trekking permit and a licensed guide, arranged in advance.
Connectivity
4G in town. Nothing on the Deosai road or up the Shigar valley beyond Askole.
Seasons
Spring (March – May), Summer (June – September), Autumn (September – October)

Within Skardu

Go deeper.

A stone stairway leading up the timber-framed walls of Shigar Fort

2,300 m

Shigar

Apricot orchards, a 400-year-old fort, and the road to the Baltoro.

The white and timber facade of Khaplu Fort above its stone-walled garden

2,600 m

Khaplu

The old Yabgo capital, terraced up a hillside above the Shyok.

Comparing